Summer in Botswana

I recently went to Botswana for a week and it was amazing few days.

Huge cloud build up in the Okavango Delta

Beautiful summer thunderstorms

The rains are just starting to fall in Botswana, and the huge cloud build up creates some amazing photo opportunities. The colours associated with the green vegetation, blue skies and black clouds is truly amazing. Of course with the start of the rainy season the days are slightly cooler, which was a welcome break from the heat (45 degrees) that we experienced in the Kalahari!!!

Lounge area

A great place to relax during the heat of the day

For 2 nights we stayed at Hyena Pan Bush camp. It really is an oasis of peace and tranquillity. Sitting at the lounge / dining area overlooking the permanent waterhole was a great way to wait out the heat of the afternoon. Even though the rains have started and the animals are moving away from permanent water sources, it was still nice to see elephant and other wildlife coming to the waterhole in the afternoon to quench their thirst.

A highlight for me was on the drive back to Maun. We came across a pack of wild dog lounging in the shade of a Marula Tree. All of the dogs were very relaxed especially considering that this was on the main road between Mababe Village and Maun. Unlike other top predators wild dogs are great to watch as they are always so active and alert – no sleeping for this bunch.

Relaxing in the shade

Wild Dogs in Botswana

It was a fantastic time in Botswana, and even though many think that the rainy season is not the best time to visit Botswana, the wildlife and amazing birdlife (and the odd drop of rain) made every moment I was in Botswana one to be cherished.

Hairy times on the Zambezi

It was early in the morning in the Lower Zambezi while on a recent Trade Route safari, with 10 people in our group canoeing down the Mighty Zambezi River. Two people per canoe (all couples).The local guide called us together for a short briefing before we started. After that we started canoeing down the river with a lot of excitement. One couple was struggling because it was their first time – the lady was paddling towards left and her husband was doing the same, they were turning around in circles. We swapped partners, the lady and I went together and her husband teamed up with the local guide. After about 500m or so, a big hippo appeared straight ahead of us. Everyone was shaking nervously because we are all aware of how dangerous these animals can be when agitated. The best solution is to move away calmly.

My partner and I were at the back and we were all in a single file. My partner started to focus on the hippo and forgot about paddling, the canoe turned and she started paddling backwards to get away – a very natural reaction. The hippo disappeared and the rest of the group who had made it to the island already were watching on.

The excitement was high because we were struggling to get in and the rest of the group was laughing, busy videoing and taking photos. We made it there safely in the end, from lunch time on we were the joke of the tour.

Safety always comes first but afterwards a little humour goes a long way.

Bongizwe

4 countries in 21 days – An experience of a lifetime!

21 days through four different countries from Cape Town to Victoria Falls is an experience of a lifetime for someone coming to Africa for the first time. With cooler weather in South Africa to dry hot days in Namibia and southern Botswana to the humid and sometimes extreme temperatures of the delta and Zambia. On our recent tour we had some great experiences that gave our trip that “WOW Factor” for our guests.

Lion strolling along

In Etosha, northern Namibia we had amazing game viewing with 22 lions (5 of which were cubs) in 2 game drivers. The elephants also gave us a good showing with a few old bulls and a large family group having a swim and a mud wallow at one of the waterholes that surround the pan.

Lion cubs playing with mom

We also had the pleasure of sighting a black rhino bull as he wet his lips after a very hot day under the African sun. Unfortunately after having tracked a young leopard for an hour or so we lost the tracks in the Mopane woodland to the east of the pan.

Etosha pan once used to be a vast lake fed by the Kunene River which decided to change its course thousands of years ago. It now stands dry for most of the year getting baked by the sun. When water does grace its beds the pans surface has a wide variety of water birds migrate to its vast openness to breed.

Dirk

The beauty of Mozambique

Mozambique is a very beautiful country. It is blessed with beautiful blue beaches from the I Indian Ocean and bustling markets around the country. The people are some of the most industrious I have ever seen. That is probably from the troubled history they have had. The tropical atmosphere with all the palm trees needs to be experienced for ones self. Words will not do justice in describing it!

Dhow trip

Thanks to Mr Joachim Elves who was the first explorer to settle in Vilanculos. He was shown around by the native Abathwa tribe, he was shown the great wealth of beauty in the area especially the marine life. He later spread the word to his people and travellers started flocking in. We followed behind Mr Elves’s footsteps in exploring the Bazaruto Islands. It has the most incredible beaches and we had a great time. Taking a local dhow for a day excursion we took our snorkeling gear we explored the coral reefs and the marine life. There are so many colours and many different fish. We also had a scrumptious lunch of seafood. It included Baracuda, crabs and a host of other local delicacies. I even conquered my fear of water as I snorkeled and marveled at sights in the ocean.

Our sense of being in paradise was cut short by the return of the tide and it was time to head back to the main land. There was a party waiting for us in Vilanculos, the little town with a partying problem.



Lissom

Sundowners at our campsite

In Chobe National Park we had one of the most pristine campsites situated on the banks of Chobe riverfront facing the Namibian side. We were camping under a huge trichelia emmetica tree.

The bushes beyond our camp were largely made of Wooly Caper bush which is a preferred habitat for lions so it did not surprise (it surprised some more than others) us much when we had a lioness coming into our camp, close to the trailer just sniffing around while the guests were having sundowners close to the shores of the river.

While enjoying our drinks we also enjoyed lots of elephants arriving for their evening drink, the guests were in awe when they heard the stomach rumbling of the elephants. After the elephants we were blessed with a hyena quenching his thirst just behind the waterbucks making for awesome national geographic shots.

That evening during dinner there were moments of quietness – listening to elephants swishing their way through the river, hyenas making their maniacal laughter and the giant eagle owl calling close to us.
Before we retired to the safety of our tents, we heard a male leopard calling in a deep rasping cough not far from our camp – we were sure he was a big boy.

We all agreed it is at these moments when one’s senses are alive in the true African wilderness.

Jerry

Wild dogs having a feast

We went to Chobe National Park on our recent Botswana Wild Parks safari. The Chobe River is the border between Botswana and Nambia. The people who live on the Botswana side are the Sibiya and the Namibian side are the Lozi. There is an island called Sidudu at the border between Botswana and Namibia where buffalos, impala, lechewe and elephant graze in the dry season because of its evergreen grass.

Wild dog

As we approached the island we saw dust being kicked up by impala running frantically in different directions and others crossing the river. We hurried to get there to see what was happening, we saw 4 wild dogs chasing and catching a male impala, there was silence for the next hour as we watched the wild dogs taking turns biting chunks out of the impala, eating it alive until the impala died due to excessive blood loss. The wild dogs were eating fast dragging the carcass in different directions trying to get the most out of this carcass.

Africa, yes it is survival of the fittest but it is also the circle of life…

Edwell

Our awesome Blyde River Canyon hike

On the recent trip on the Walking South Africa safari, the most memorable hike was getting down into the Blyde River Canyon. Seeing as the escarpment of the Blyde River Canyon is the natural boundary between the Lowveld and Highveld of South Africa, the weather here is diverse and unpredictable due to the rising warm air off the Indian Ocean blowing up the escarpment and condensing into forming numerous beautiful clouds creating a spectacular scenery.

We awoke to perfect African sunrise veering through the clouds, as we began to descend into the canyon. The clouds dissipated and weather heated up quickly (much to the relief of the Europeans who’ve had constant rainfall back in the Northern Hemisphere). The heat resulted in a crystal clear morning with fantastic views of the canyon, the three rondawels and the entire lowveld in general. Due to the geographical positioning of the canyon, the fauna here is incredibly diverse and as it was spring, all the trees and bushes were in full bloom, which were highly interesting to examine along the hike.

Heading down into the drainage line, where a tributary of the Blyde river flows, we decided to take a breather from the heat and followed the “Lourie Trail”. This trail is well named after the Purple-Crested Touraco (old-name Purple Crested Lourie) which frequents this lush habitat. This section of the trail runs parallel, and repetitively crosses a crystal clear stream which originates in the mountain and thus, is ideal for refilling our expended water-bottles!

This stream also forms large natural rock pools in the granite base of the escarpment & after passing what was probably the 10th pool, we just could not longer resist; threw our boots and backpacks off & all dived into one of the most beautiful pools in the area, never mind it being surrounded by 270 degrees of waterfall!

No better way to end off a strenuous hike in the captivating heat of South Africa!

Henry Bell

The most enjoyable brunch

On a perfect Zululand-spring day on our latest South Africa Rainbow Route Safari we were hot and hungry as one is at 11 o’clock , we were hastily making our way back to camp to enjoy a fry up in the shade of one of the acacias next to our kitchen.

We had seen everything in Kruger earlier in the tour- everything except big cats, the holy grail of the African bush. And to be honest, the clients’ candle of hope was seriously flickering by now! When I rounded a bend in the road and saw a male cheetah gorging himself on a freshly killed kudu youngster I had to concentrate to keep my own excitement in check!

The cheetah and the dead kudu were right next to the road!! I eased our tour bus slowly down the road until we were mere meters away from this amazing predator. The cheetah paid us no attention whatsoever, and continued to feed for another minute or so, giving everybody ample opportunity to take some really unique pictures.

The cheetah had eaten most of the kudu’s shoulder, so when it stood up to find a shady spot to digest his meal, we slowly followed him down the road. It was only when he eventually lay down that we saw his brother, perfectly camouflaged under a tree a few yards away.

We spent an hour with these cheetah brothers, who often team up to make hunting and defending their territory easier.

Needless to say, the brunch tasted so sweet!

Yours in guiding

CJ van Blerk

Botswana Wildside Safari – we were spoilt!

After fantastic game viewing in Moremi, Savuti & Chobe, which included plenty sightings of the Big 5 and wild dog, we left on the Thebe River sunset cruise for an afternoon on the Chobe River.

Setting off we jokingly asked the ‘captain’ for kingfishers and yawning hippo’s. We certainly got them quickly – pied, malachite, giant & the elusive half-coloured kingfishers were spotted & photographed within minutes. After getting within metres of elephants, crocodiles and buffaloes along the waters edge we got not one, but two hippos yawning & showing off simultaneously.

Thinking that this could not be topped, we spotted two highly threatened saddle- billed’s on the banks & out the bush just behind the storks walked a leopard. To celebrate a fantastic afternoon on the Chobe, two bottles of champagne were opened & as the first sips were being taken another leopard walked out behind the first!

Drinking champagne on the Chobe whilst admiring two leopards strolling confidently together is not exactly something you get to witness everyday!

It was a remarkable cruise which ended off with us watching two bull elephants in a full-blown fight, with the beautiful African sun setting behind them, on the journey back!

Chobe.. you never cease to amaze me.

Africa – what you see is what you get

On our recent trip through Zimbabwe, we arrived at Victoria Falls and after setting up camp we went for dinner to a small restaurant called the African Hide. As it is an African styled restaurant there are always a lot of questions about the menu.

There is one question that gets asked pretty frequently: “Charel, what are fish and worms?” After a lengthy discussion about Kapenta fish and their role in creating jobs for the locals around Lake Kariba I start telling them about the Mopane worms and how they live in the Mopane trees. I also expalined that this is what they ordered. I think something got lost in translation as when the food arrived there was a massive gasp to my right and as I looked up I saw a look of terror on one of our guests faces. “What’s wrong?” I asked. Still with the same look on her face she said “These are real worms!”

In the moment everybody was excited and most tried the Mopani worms and a valuable lesson was learnt:

If a menu in Africa says “Fish and Worms” then that is what you’ll get.

Charel